The following information has been compiled from various sources and is intended to be a guideline for anyone who is considering starting a saltwater (aka "marine") tank, or who has recently gotten into the hobby. There is no absolute right and wrong in this hobby; opinions and practices may vary.
Thinking about it but haven't taken the plunge?
Marine fish and reef tanks are truly inspiring but they do require a higher level of commitment than your average freshwater tank. If the next few paragraphs don't scare you off then get ready to dive into the lifestyle of the saltwater fanatic!
Financially: Figure on $50 per gallon for a reef tank (fish only can be substantially less). This figure includes what you'll spend on the tank itself, equipment, livestock, food, water, and electricity. So a 75g reef tank will have cost you approximately $4000 by the end of the first year.
Maintenance: Averages about an hour a day for a typical reef tank. More or less depending on the actual tank size.
Patience: This hobby will test your patience to the extreme! Being hasty will usually lead to problems and frustration.
Speaking of Frustration: If you can't handle some frustration and defeat definitely DO NOT pursue this hobby! There will be highs and lows and you just have accept what happens and move forward.
If you can handle everything stated above then you've got what it takes to keep a marine aquarium! The following sections cover some of the details that you'll be curious about.
What equipment do I need to get started?
Bfore you can even ask this question you should be thinking about what animals you're planning to keep. The diversity of marine animals is so great that you have to pick and choose (to an extent) what general types you want to keep based on their demands. The next few topics will give you some ideas… the equipment list follows.
Major Decision #1 - fish only or reef?
Typically "reef" aquariums consist of rock work (live rock) and corals placed strategically and aesthetically in addition to fish and invertebrates. Fish only aquariums also usually employ live rock (a.k.a. "FOWLR" fish only with live rock) and only fish. Keeping corals translates into much more time and money invested in equipment, maintenance, and costs of running the tank. It also means that certain fish will be off limits if not deemed "reef safe". Even though more demanding, reef aquariums are amazing living art - and the best part about them is they are always changing and growing.
What are the care requirements of corals?
To understand the requirements of corals it helps to look at them in simplified terms. Hobbyists have come up with a non-scientific method of grouping corals, based on their physical structure, into 1 of 3 groups: Small Polyp Stoney ("SPS"), Large Polyp Stoney ("LPS"), and Soft corals ("Softies"). These groups are defined very broadly and you should research specific corals that you plan to add to your tank before adding them.
SPS: Usually requires moderate to intense lighting, moderate to intense water movement, and very good to pristine water quality. SPS corals tend to be very sensitive to changes in water chemistry. Typically newbies are steered away from SPS corals and told that SPS can only be kept by elite reefkeepers. As long as you understand the corals needs and are attentive to them you can have success. Corals in the Acropora and Montipora genus are examples of "SPS" corals.
LPS: Usually require medium to moderate lighting but will sometimes tolerate low or intense lighting depending on the coral. Moderate water movement is recommended for most species. Water quality can range from fair to good, some species will not thrive in pristine water. LPS are typically very hardy corals and not sensitive to small changes. Corals in the Favia, Euphyllia, and Acanthastrea genus are examples of "LPS" corals.
Softies: Usually require low to medium light but will sometimes tolerate moderate and even intense light depending on the coral. Low to moderate water movement is recommended for most species. Corals in the Sarcophyton and Zooanthid genus are examples of soft corals.
Note About Lighting: The above lighting requirements pertain to photosynthetic corals, which are what most hobbyists keep. There are many non-photosynthetic corals as well. Non-photosynthetic corals must be fed, and even then some species are very difficult to keep in captivity; these are better left to the experienced hobbyist.
Is it ok to mix different types of corals in the same tank?
Some people will insist that coral X can only be kept with corals Y and Z and only under specific conditions. There is no cut and dry rule book, and it's generally ok to mix corals as long as the proper considerations are taken into account. You should read up on all corals before purchasing them to determine if they will aggressively attack neighboring corals, or if they will do well under the conditions that your aquarium provides (lighting, flow, water quality).
What are the care requirements of marine fish?
There are just too many different types of fish in the hobby to answer this question. Your best bet is to use online retailers and other hobbyists as a means to find this information out about fish you are interested in before buying them.
What fish can I keep and how many?
Choose fish with similar temperaments and behaviors. If you're planning a reef tank your fish should be classified as "reef safe" otherwise they may eat inverts, corals, other reef critters, or each other! Most online retailers provide this general information. Regarding how many fish, you'll come across "inches of fish allowed per X gallons of water". It's a funky rule of thumb, not extremely useful but if you want to use a figure of 1 inch of fish per 5 gallons you'll probably be ok. Based on that, a 75g tank can hold 15 inches of fish, so (5) 3" fish would be ok - but a single 15-inch fish would not be a good decision based on that tank size! As always do your homework, ask others, and use common sense.
Ok, I've decided to go for a reef tank, what equipment and supplies do I need?
Alright! Reef tanks are awesome there is nothing quite like them. Here is a list of equipment and supplies
that most hobbyists would consider essential, detailed can be found by following each link.
About Tanks
If you're planning on using a sump then buy a "Reef Ready" (RR) tank if you can. You'll see one or more overflow compartments on the back of the tank. Each of them has an overflow pipe and a return pipe (usually). This will allow water to pass from your sump into the tank and back to the sump again via a return pump. If you're going sumpless then you don't need a RR tank.
Glass vs. Acrylic: Acrylic is light, clear, and strong. Unfortunately it is more expensive than glass and it can scratch rather easily, however with some work most scratches can be removed. It is also a better insulator which can be a problem when it comes to summer heat (usually you're trying to get heat out of the water). Glass is not as clear as acrylic, can fracture if struck, is heavy, but dissipates heat better and costs less.
Large vs. Small: Large tanks tend to be more stable because changes happen less rapidly than in tanks with small water volume, however large tanks require more time to maintain. You'll also spend more money on the tank, stand, and equipment associated with a large tank, not to mention all the extra livestock! Small tanks are less stable but relatively simple to maintain and will cost exponentially less than larger tanks.
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About Stands
Find one that's the right size for your tank (ok that was obvious). Consider how well you can access the inside of the stand - especially if you're planning on having a sump. Make sure that the inside of the stand is stained with a water resistant product. It's a good idea to install a fan in the back of totally enclosed stands to bring fresh air in, with open back stands it isn't necessary. One important note: some manufacturers will only warranty a tank if it is on a stand made by them!
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Major Decision #2 - Lighting
By now you should know if you plan to keep a reef or fish only tank. If keeping fish only you can get my with minimal lighting, simple fluorescent bulbs would work fine, or Power Compact bulbs for a little extra kick. If you're keeping a reef you need to decide on how much intensity you'll need based on the types of corals you plan to keep.
Metal Halide ("MH"): The most intense lighting available, and also runs very hot. Some information suggests that T5 High Output is just as, or even more intense however this has yet to be adopted in the mainstream school of thinking. There are many different MH setups available. In general bulbs are 150w, 175w, 250w, 400w, and 1000w. Also in general a MH bulb with proper reflector can cover an area of 24-30" square - so you will most likely need 2 or more bulbs for your tank. MH bulbs require a ballast to start them; this can be purchased separately or as a kit. Bulbs generally need to be replaced at 9-12 months. MH will require a tall canopy due to heat output.
T5 High Output ("T5"and/or "T5 HO"): T5 is intense fluorescent lighting that has been popular over seas for years and is becoming more popular in the US. T5 runs fairly hot but not as hot as MH lighting. Bulbs come in 24w, 39w, 54w, and 80w. Corresponding lengths are 24", 36", 48", 60" respectively. Each bulb requires a single reflector. Typically the preferred method is to fit as many bulbs over the top of the tank as possible (6 bulbs with reflectors will fit over a standard 75g). T5 bulbs work in pairs and require a ballast to start them which may be purchased as a kit. Bulbs generally need to be replaced at 12-14 months. These can be run in a low profile canopy.
Very High Output Fluorescent ("VHO"): VHO is a moderately intense fluorescent light with a built in reflector. VHO runs slightly hotter than T5 lighting. Popular opinion has it that VHO is not quite as intense as T5, but many VHO users still swear by them and get good results. VHO bulbs require a ballast to start them. Bulbs generally need to be replaced at 6-9 months. VHO requires a medium height canopy due to heat output.
Power Compact ("PC"): A moderately intense fluorescent u-shaped bulb. Typically PC lighting runs cool and does not use a reflector due to its shape. Popular opinion has it that PC lighting is slightly less intense than VHO. Some argue that PC and T5 would be on even ground with use of a proper reflector but the bulb's odd shape may rule this option out. PC lights usually are sold with a built in ballast. Can be run in a low profile canopy.
Normal Output Flourescent ("NO"): Low intensity lighting. These would be found in hardware stores etc… Cool running, but not much intensity. Fine for fish only tank, not the best choice for the reef aquarium, but can sustain lower light corals. Can be run in a low profile canopy.
Lighting is always a subject of heated debates amongst reef keepers. Everyone tends to stick to what they know and defend it to the death! It's a good idea to ask around anyway and get some feedback before buying anything.
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Lighting Color and PAR
Just about all the lighting available is available different Kelvin temperatures - which is a fancy way of saying different color spectrums. The higher the number the more blue (such as 20k) the lower the number the more yellow (such as 6k). Mixing and matching Kelvin temps can also achieve desirable results.
The various color temperatures produce different results. Typically many reefers on the West Coast of the U.S. prefer a white (~10k) to blue (14k~20k) appearance. Strangely enough on the East Coast of the U.S. yellow (6.5k) to white (10k) seems more popular. In general this is purely for aesthetics. The following statement is subject to some skepticism: While 20k bulbs make corals "pop" (called an "actinic" effect) they tend to not bring out the true color of the corals (such as when the lights are off the corals will look very different). 10k tends to bring the true color of the coral out without relying on actinic effect.
If you are keeping corals an important variable with lighting is the amount of Photosynthetically Available Radiation (PAR). The higher the PAR of a bulb the faster corals and other photosynthetic organisms will grow. Too low of a PAR value and they may not grow and even perish. The PAR value of some bulbs is given, but not always.
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About Canopy's
Make sure you have your lighting setup figured out before settling on a canopy. Access is a consideration also, some canopies have a hinge across the top that allows it to flip open for tank access, others have doors on the front.
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Major Decision #3 - sump or no sump?
The sump is a tank that usually resides in the stand where it is hidden under the display tank. Most of the equipment listed above can be in or connected to the sump. Water is pumped from the sump into the display tank where it then displaces water in the tank, which overflows back into the sump via an overflow pipe. This has several benefits:
About Protein Skimmers
The Protein skimmer is one of the most important parts of your system. Although some hobbyists run skimmerless, the majority would agree it is a key to good water quality. The function of the skimmer is to remove organics from the water thus increasing water quality and removing potential fuel for unwanted algae. There are many skimmer designs all of which share the principle of using air bubbles to bind the organics into a foam that accumulates in a collection cup. The cup can be removed and emptied as needed. Skimmer manufacturers usually rate the skimmer for a given water volume. Add the volume of your tank, and sump if you're planning one, and select a skimmer rated for at least this size. Some folks prefer to go up to the next size, and some who believe in overkill get the absolute biggest skimmer that they can afford or fit into their space.
If you're planning a sump consider an in-sump skimmer or an external skimmer that can reside in the stand next to the sump. If you're not planning a sump you'll need to find a hang-on-back skimmer.
Needle-wheel skimmers are a popular choice right now and an efficient design. There are several manufacturers with needle-wheel skimmers on the market right now,
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About Return Pumps
If you're not planning a sump then you can skip this section. If you are planning a sump read on…
The return pump resides next to or in the sump. Its job is to pump water from the sump back to the display tank, where water will be displaced at an equal rate and return to the sump via an overflow pipe. Different sized tanks have different diameter, and sometimes multiple overflow pipes. 1" diameter standpipes can handle about 900 gallons per hour (GPH), 1 ¼" standpipes can handle around 1200 GPH, 1 ½" can handle about 1500 GPH, and 2" can handle about 2000 GPH. Most folks like to pump at least 10x the tank volume through the sump per hour which factors into the system "turnover rate". For a 75g tank pumping 750-800 GPH through the sump would be great. Keep in mind that the more water you pump through the sump the more noise you'll inherently generate too.
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About Powerheads
Powerheads are simply submersible pumps that are placed in the display tank to generate water movement. Usually powerheads are used when there is not enough water movement from other means (return pump, hang on back equipment, etc…).
Will you need powerheads? It depends. Generally reefkeepers who have SPS dominated tanks prefer to have 25x or more turnover in the tank (some have 50x turnover, and some prefer even more!). Turnover is a ratio of the total water volume moved in one hour divided by the tank volume. A 75g tank with 20x turnover moves 1500g of water an hour. This is the sum of return pump, closed loop pump, powerheads, hang-on-back equipment, etc…
A closed loop can be an attractive alternative to powerheads, see next section.
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About Closed Loops
Closed loop systems would typically be used on a reef aquarium as opposed to fish only. A "Closed Loop" refers to an external pump that is configured so it's suction draws water from inside the display tank (usually through a hole in the back of the tank) and pumps water back into the tank (usually though another hole in the back of the tank). The pump typically resides in the stand. This allows for quite a bit of water movement without powerheads in the tank which might detract from the display. This of course requires that the back of the tank be drilled for the pump suction and return; a task best left to someone who specializes in this type of work.
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About RO/DI Water Filtration Systems
Using tap water is generally a bad idea due to many impurities in the water. With all the money and time invested in a saltwater system it just makes sense to use the best water possible since it is crucial to the tank inhabitants' health. RO/DI water is an excellent option. RO/DI stands for Reverse Osmosis / De-Ionization. This is a mutli stage (usually 5 or 6 stage) filtration system that purifies your tap water. Water can be stored in just about any container that won't leach back into the water. When top-off water is needed to replace evaporated tank water, or new saltwater is needed for water changes the stored water can be used.
Typically for every gallon of RO/DI water made the system will put 4 gallons of wastewater down the drain. The wastewater is non-toxic; it just contains a higher concentration of the impurities already in your tap water. Some creative reefkeepers use the wastewater to water their garden, pets, or wash clothes in.
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About Heaters
Heaters help maintain your tank temperature when it drops below the desired range (usually 78-80 F). Heaters typically have a built in thermostat to control the temperature. If you're planning a sump then your heater(s) can go in the sump so it is out of sight. It's a good idea to have 2 heaters in place in case one fails. Heaters are available in various wattages. Higher wattage heaters take less time to heat up the water when needed.
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About Thermometers
You'll need at least one. If possible use 2 just in case one starts reading wrong. In that event replace them both and keep an eye on the tank temperature to make sure everything is ok. If you're planning on a sump you can hide the thermometers there.
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About Fans and Chillers
The more lighting and pumps you have the more heat you'll be putting into your tank. Trying to maintain an ideal temperature (78-80F) will require a means of cooling. Fans can work great when used to blow across a sump, and your lighting. This will cool your tank by increasing evaporation so you'll have to add top off water more often. Fans are fairly inexpensive to run.
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About Timers and Controllers
Appliance timers are handy for getting your lights on a fixed schedule. You may also find them useful for turning on and off gadgets such as a calcium reactor, dosing pump, and anything else you want on a fixed schedule. These can be picked up from you local hardware store.
For more advanced control and monitoring of your reef system a controller may fit the bill. Controllers come in many varieties, some are dedicated to controlling a certain parameter such as temperature. You program in a high and/or low set point, the controller monitors the temperature. When it detects the temperature is above or below your setpoint(s) it will open or close an internal relay. This will allow you to turn on and off devices such as heaters, fans, chiller, etc… and to automatically keep your temperature within the range you set. Multi-controllers can monitor and control multiple parameters at once, some controllers have advanced features such as synchronizing your lighting to the moon phases, paging or emailing you when a parameter is out of specification, and internet access and control. The more feature the more you pay!
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About Grounding Probes
Grounding probes are simply a titanium probe that you place into your sump or tank and plug into a 3-prong outlet, except only the grounding pin actually makes contact inside the outlet. In case of a short there is a direct connection to ground and will rid your tank of 'stray current'. In addition you should have your all of your electrical devices plugged into GFCI outlets either directly, or via a powerstrip. This can save your life if you ever encounter live current in your tank.
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About Hydrometers and Refractometers
Refractometers and hydrometers are tools used to check the salinity of your saltwater. They will assist you in mixing up the correct ratio of salt to water for filling your tank and doing water changes. The refractometer is only slightly more expensive than a hydrometer and much more reliable.
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About Test Kits
You'll need several test kits, some you'll use for the first few months, and others you'll use for the life of your reef tank. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, and PH are essential for starting a tank. Alkalinity, Calcium, and Magnesium are important references that you'll want to keep tabs on if you're keeping a reef tank. Salifert brand kits are a very popular choice although they are a little more costly.
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About Probes and Meters
Some parameters can be tested using digital probes and meters. Ph is best tested using a meter rather than a test kit. Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) is another important an inexpensive meter to test your RO/DI water to ensure your TDS is 0 (or very low). There are also digital temperature, ORP, and Calcium probes.
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About Salt
You obviously need salt to make salt water! This is not table salt however. You need to select a brand from the fish store and stick with it. Changing salts must be done slowly over time as different brands contain totally different chemistries. Unfortunately no one salt really has all of the parameters that natural sea water does, and all of the salts on the market have their strengths and weaknesses. For instance Instant Ocean brand salt has a very good alkalinity value, but is low on calcium. Oceanic brand salt has excellent calcium but low alkalinity. Read up on different brands and choose carefully.
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About Kalkwasser
A crazy sounding word, it's actually German for "lime water". Kalkwasser is used to maintain calcium and alkalinity, two important parameters for coral growth, in the aquarium. Kalkwasser is essentially bicarbonate, aka lime mixed with freshwater. This can be purchased from the fish store - or simply use food grade pickling lime! The method of introducing it into the aquarium is usually to use it as top off water. The drawback is that it does raise the Ph of the aquarium so only so much can be added over a given time period safely.
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About Calcium Reactors
In reef tanks where many stony corals are competing for resources Kalkwasser may not be enough to keep up with the demands of the corals. In this case a calcium reactor can be used to maintain calcium and alkalinity. The reactor is a complex piece of equipment. It consists of one or two reactor chambers, a CO2 bottle, gas regulator, pump, and PH controller. Crushed coral media is placed into the chambers which water and CO2 is pumped through. The CO2 lowers the Ph within the reaction chamber and dissolves the crushed coral releasing the stored calcium and bicarbonate into the tank for consumption by your corals. This is an expensive setup up front, but will more than pay for itself in the long run, and will give you the results you want to see if you plan on keeping many stony corals.
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About Activated Carbon
Carbon, or Activate Carbon, is used to absorb impurities in the water of your aquarium. It can be placed in a media bag, or fluid filter. As water passes though it, it will clarify the water making it look cleaner and removing certain pathogens. Some hobbyists prefer to use carbon 24/7, changing it every few weeks or as needed.
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About Phosban/RowaPhos
These are actually brand names of phosphate removing media. They are used in a similar way to carbon. The purpose of keeping phosphates down is to prevent unwanted algae growth. Some hobbyists prefer to use these types of media only as needed, others use them 24/7. It should be noted that when starting to use them it's best to start with a small amount of the media as it is very effective and will sometimes shock corals due to the rapid depletion of phosphate.
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Summary
The one thing you can count on with reef keeping is there is no right or wrong way to do it. Everyone seems to do it a little differently and it all boils down to what works for you. When you're doing something right your tank will tell you so by the bright display of corals and fish swimming happily along. When you do something wrong your tank will also tell you. Hopefully your mistakes won't be fatal to your tank inhabitants. It's amazing what corals and fish can recover from so never give up. If anything it is your duty to stick with them and always have their best interests in mind. Remember corals, fish, crabs, and snails are all living creatures and deserve to be respected as such.
This article was intended to give you a basic introduction to some of the pieces of the puzzle in setting up a saltwater fish or reef tank. Once you decide on the equipment and get your tank started you're only at the beginning of the journey. This is a great hobby I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.
Happy Reefing,
Jacob Dinardi